Innovative BioBased Raw Materials for Cosmetics and Health Products

The environmental burden caused by pharmaceuticals and the accumulation of pharmaceutical residues in wastewaters are growing problems. Our research project, which began in October 2025, promotes the use of natural materials in functional cosmetics and health products. Natural materials with health-promoting properties can help reduce the need for conventional pharmaceutical substances.

Excessive use of antibiotics, for example, contributes to antibiotic resistance, which makes infections harder to treat and can turn common illnesses into lifethreatening conditions. By reducing the use of pharmaceuticals, we can also decrease the risk of developing drug resistance. Furthermore, natural materials can replace environmentally harmful ingredients, such as oilbased polymers, microplastics and titanium dioxide, that are traditionally used in cosmetics and health products.

In the project Sustainably produced functional bio-based materials in health products (Funter), we produce functional raw materials derived from algae, fungal mycelia, plants, and various side streams, and assess the bioactivity and healthpromoting properties of the produced materials. In addition, a lifecycle assessment (LCA) tool will be developed and utilized to ensure the environmental sustainability of the functional raw materials produced and the new cosmetic and health products.

In practice, extracts or specific compounds are produced from natural materials such as Fusarium fungi and the flowers, leaves, and stems of paracress. Their potential health effects are assessed by measuring their bioactive properties including their antioxidant capacity and their ability to inhibit the growth of various pathogenic microbes. Extracts and compounds that show positive health effects in these tests are then used in formulation studies, where the functional raw material is combined with suitable excipients. This ensures that the final product is effective, stable, and pleasant to use. The studied bio-based materials may also replace some commonly used excipients in health and cosmetic products, helping to reduce the number of ingredients needed and simplifying overall production.

The project is carried out in collaboration between Häme University of Applied Sciences (HAMK), Laurea University of Applied Sciences, and the University of Helsinki. At HAMK, we serve as the project coordinator and are responsible for producing functional raw materials from microalgae, fungi and selected plants, as well as analyzing the composition of the produced materials. The University of Helsinki focuses on determining the healthpromoting properties of the raw materials, studying the use of new ingredients in pharmaceutical products, and conducting lifecycle assessments. Laurea University of Applied Sciences concentrates on applying the new raw materials in cosmetic products and conducting usability and shelflife testing.

“We are developing innovative and ecofriendly solutions to support wellbeing and laying the foundation for a multidisciplinary innovation ecosystem covering the production of bio-based raw materials with functional properties, their processing and incorporation to cosmetic and health products,” says AinoMaija Lakaniemi, Project Manager.

The Sustainably produced functional bio-based materials in health products project is cofunded by the European Union and will continue until the end of 2027.